Wednesday, 15 May 2013

Bungh Dyo Jatra - The Annual Chariot Festival of Rato Machindranath of Patan (Bungh Dyo or the Deity from Bungh)

The much anticipated annual chariot festival of Rato (Red) Machindranath is here. The Rato Machindranath of Patan is worshiped in a variety of incarnations; to the Buddhists he is the tantric edition of Avalokiteshwor, Shaivites worship him as an incarnation of Shiva, some cults worship him as Kali, Tara, Lokeshwor, Karunamaya, or Matsyendranath, whereas some believe him to be Biranchinarayan. Even with all these names and incarnations the Rato Machindranath of Patan is most popularly known as ‘Bungh Dyo’ among its worshipers; the deity who is brought to Patan every year from the settlement of Bungamati, 5 kilometers away.

A shlok mentioned in the essay ‘Biranchinarayan’ (Manandhar, J.B., 2046 B.S. “Biranchinarayan”, Kathmandu: pp.120) can be translated as follows:
‘The one who is worshiped as Vishnu by Vaisnavites, Shiva by Shaivites, Shakti by Shaktas (followers of the Mother Goddess – Shakti), Surya by Shauryas (followers of the sun god – Surya), Brahma by Brahmans, Matsyendranath by Saints, Lokeshwor by the Vedics, and, Karunamaya by the Buddhists; I pray daily to such a deity’

The chariot of Matsyendranath at Lagankhel, Patan (2008) along with the smaller chariot of Min-Nath
The chariot festival of Bungh Dyo, travels through the streets of Patan, accompanied by a smaller chariot of Min-Nath. The chariot of Machindranath or Bungh Dyo consists of a square wooden shrine, covered in gilt, placed centrally at a wooden platform. The shrine along with the wheels and the beams are preserved from the previous years, but the other requirements such as poles, green boughs, streamers, vines, ropes and canes are assembled every year. The four large wheels, each with three painted eyes, represent four Bhairavs from the four places in the valley, the main beam of the chariot, called ‘Dhaima’ in Newari, represents the Karkotak Naag, the pulling ropes also represent the naags (serpents). It is said that the chariot of Rato Machindranath is constructed with representations of all the deities in some form or the other. Other images that are place in the chariot are of a Horse – the vahana of Surya, a Bull – vahana of Shiva, a GarudaVahana of Vishnu, and a Swan – vahana of Brahma. The number 32 plays an important role in the chariot construction, it is said that one revolution of the wheels (circumference) of the chariot measures 32 hands (32 haat).

Friday, 10 May 2013

Yala Mandala - Adaptive Reuse of an old Residence in Patan, Nepal


Kwalakhu, a place with a history of its own, is a residential settlement in Patan, less than 500 meters North-West of the Patan Durbar Square. Surrounded by monuments like the Hiranya Varna Mahabihar (Golden Temple), Bangalamukhi and Kumbheshwor temples, Swotha Narayan Temple and the Palace complex of ancient Lalitpur, Kwalakhu is a charming neighbourhood, a melting pot, of different crafts, cultures and architecture within the realms of traditional Newari art and lifestyle.  

Folklore suggests that the neighbourhood has been a historically significant location since the Kirat times and a majestic Peepal tree (Ficus religiosa or Sacred Fig) in the area is often cited as the remains from the prehistoric Kitati era. Such speculations, although not proven, have been verbally transmitted in stories from generation to generation adding to the charm and mystery of the place. The historicity of the place is further heightened by stories from the Rana times when the Rajbhandaris of Kwalakhu were known to have business relations with the then reigning Ranas. As such the architecture of the area seems to have influences from all surviving time periods, as early as the 'brick on mud mortar' Malla architecture to the lime plastered Rana style and the cement concrete structures of the present times.
Neighbourhood and the 'Rajbhandari House':
A walk around Kwalakhu brings you face to face with residents of different cultural backgrounds, within the Newar community. Incidentally it also brings you close to different traditional professions, which included trade and to a very large extend art. Even today, majority of the shops in the neighbourhood display metal sculptures and fabrics including Pashmina along with Nepali paper products.
It is befitting that this neighbourhood now houses Yala Mandala - a conglomeration of art, history and culture of all of Nepal. Yala Mandala Pvt. Ltd. is an art gallery that collects, designs, and manufactures and preserves pieces that are exclusive to the Nepali ways in terms of clothing, accessories, art, architecture and furniture and lifestyle products.
The building housing Yala is named the 'Rajbhandari House' after the family name of its original owners. Originally the building was a residence, but it also housed a local school at one point in history. In 2006 a section of the building was opened, after renovation by UNESCO, as the 'Kwalakhu Cafe'. Today the cafe is housed in an inner section and a part of the building is converted to Yala Mandala Art Gallery. Tracing the history of the building itself, it seems these quarters have adapted and transformed themselves as per the need of the time and place. Transformation - a key for the survival of many heritage homes through history is the essence of this place. A section of another building in the same courtyard has recently been renovated to be transformed into the offices of Yala.
Visually the buildings housing the gallery and the offices are similar to their original counterparts but parts of the interiors have been modified as per the needs of the function. Some of these spaces are opened up longitudinally with areas flowing into one another. The internal surfaces and spaces have been designed using traditional inspired finishes, furnishing and furniture ranging from jute mat flooring to low-height seating and timber furniture.
The refurbishment of the office building of Yala is done in a minimal intervention approach whereby the elements of the existing building are maintained rather than renovated. All external elements including the exposed brick wall and the carved timber windows are simply cleaned and re-finished with a fresh layer of linseed oil. Internal surfaces too have been simply cleaned and re-finished with either jute mat or mud flooring and a fresh coat of wall paint.
Interestingly the renovation of the building is not supervised by any professional designer or conservationist. The artisans, who have been trained through generations in their respective fields and who work with Yala, were given control over the respective details. The outcome is a product of their hands-on training and years of experience. The maintenance and preservation of all elements in the building is done in traditional techniques, depending on the traditional know how of this generation of artisans. And the intervention is so minimal that no extensive construction is done in any part of this building, all spaces have been adapted rather than redesigned.
"Renovation is not a project, it is a lifestyle" - Mr. Prabin Chitrakar, YALA
For centuries, building and building maintenance has not been about hiring professional help, it was always an endeavour of the community and the family. Of course the international norms of conservation are better followed by a conservationist and perhaps the end result is also better, but conserving a building one has been living at should not be a farfetched and unaffordable task. There was a time when the 'sikarmi' (carpenter) living around the corner would be called upon to fix a staircase, when everyone knew how to clean their jhingati roofs and how to polish their telia floors. Today this knowhow is diminishing, with the lack of people who are aware of such technologies; hence it is important to promote the artisans who still have the traditional knowledge by promoting the lifestyle of renovation and adaptive reuse.  "The people who work in these traditional arts do not realize their own capacity, yet they are the ones who are realizing these visions and who actually make it happen", adds Mr. Chitrakar. The idea behind the renovation of the office buildings at Kwalakhu is the resurrection of this traditional technology without the intervention of any foreign knowledge or the influence of a school of design. It is not only by visiting a museum that the general public can learn of the splendours of this place, at Yala the visitors can feels the space around them and hopefully can get inspired to adapt these ideas into their own homes.
Even with all the potential social benefits of the endeavours at Yala, it is important to note that these actions are not only for a social cause, there is a professional, promotional and business aspect to this place and all that is done here. The only highlight is that the place and the people have realized a way that will cause promotion as well as preservation.
YALA
With a tag line of 'creativity in every sphere', Yala strives to provide and inspire just that - creativity in every sphere. Yala Mandala designs, develops and manufactures products and services that are inspired by the local community and their trade skills. The products at Yala include jewellery, natural buttons, paper products, knitwear, clothing and accessories, natural rugs, candles, bath and beauty products, paintings, furniture and furnishing, artefacts and collectables. All products of Yala are handcrafted in Nepal. The gallery, at the 'Rajbhandari House' is a fusion of art, craft, tradition and architecture which presents the unique yet traditional products of Yala in a jovial atmosphere of a traditional mud and timber based building.
Yala also promotes local and traditional art by hosting events dedicated to and presenting the local music, food etc. Heritage is not limited to its tangible products, every aspect of this tradition, from the art to the rituals and the beliefs should be experienced. So at Yala, it is not only the products but the atmosphere and the energy of the place that one can experience, especially during these events and during the sessions of music therapy and cooking classes. No aspect of the tradition is compromised for the benefit of the visitor, instead the visitor blends in the experience and perceives as per their comfort.
Another initiative at Yala is the promotion of traditional architecture by preserving and renovating abandoned or neglected buildings and inserting activities in such spaces, starting from their own office space opposite to the gallery.