Thursday, 21 November 2013

A Surface of Calmness


The vision of you, lying back, motionless, a tender lifeless form, is perfect. In the emptiness of your chamber, you lie on your pedestal.

Falling around your retired eyes is the gold of your turning strands. The gold turns around your closed lids, the lids that cover the eyes, the eyes that have witnessed my joy and beheld my despair.


Your face is like butter, smooth and pleasant, a surface of calmness after the churning I have put you through. But now you should rest, I should put you to sleep and not wake you. Nor in the course of my unrest should I evoke you from your slumber.

Your lips are strained in purple, the dull purple in contrast to your pale, bloodless skin, with beads of red dried on the curling corners.


….if the death of love in a person's heart had a human form, I imagine it will look something like this…peaceful, beautiful, but still dead.

Friday, 1 November 2013

Only to Hear You



Your words break the silence
They even break the darkness…

You echo in my entire being as I exist only to listen
To listen to your melody, travel through the emptiness and reverberate back to me…
To listen to the sound of that one deep breathe I take to calm my racing heart…
To listen to you gasp and pause between the words you speak…

Yet indeed, not to listen to the words themselves, for the words don’t matter
I close my eyes, and the words don't matter…
I let you in my mind, I feel you in my mind, and the words don't matter…

I hear you say them,
I hear them in a feathered whisper,
I hear them as clearly as I hear my own heart pound,
But the words still don’t matter

Nothing matters,
Everything fades,
And the only truth is your voice,
Your voice falling into my ears

Wednesday, 30 October 2013

The End


"Close your eyes and take a step", she tells herself. "Let the wind carry your body, let go, let nothing and nobody matter." One step, it is all it takes. As she moves into the abyss, she takes in one long breath. The air that moves her lungs moves along the rest of her body now. She can hear it swishing by on her left and her right, it takes away all the pain. Gravity takes control of her body, but her spirit is free, she is floating. Deeper and deeper into the fall that seems to have no end; ah 'end' it is such a dear word. Powerless and numb, there is no sensation, she only breathes. Every worry gone, every problem seems so pointless, every suffering, every disappointment, every last shred of pain, gone. For those precious few seconds, her heart calms down, her mind relaxes, her muscles unwind, her nerves stop bothering her, and there is only the air in her chest and the wind caressing her body. Everything she held important is completely meaningless now, why did she ever care? It doesn’t matter, she has found her salvation.

She opens her eyes and looks down, down into the bottom, that is where her numb body would have been had she taken the step. At the pit, with the rocks, still and calm, liberated and lifeless. Instead she takes a step back and turns around. As she starts to walk she realizes her one true salvation will have to wait. She was at the edge yet again. A part of her has already died today so that the rest of her may live on. She dies, everyday, a little bit, and she waits, for that one fine day when she wouldn’t have to die all the time. As she walks along, a relieved smile flutters along her lips. 

Friday, 18 October 2013

The Garden and the Wilde Words

I'm always a little extra happy when I see a post in facebook that says something in the lines of "join us in wishing Oscar Wilde a happy birthday". That day I'm happy that he was born, I'm happy that I discovered him. He makes me fall in love with beauty, he takes me into the garden of Basil Hallward, the blessed garden with the flowers, the leaves, the sunlight and with Dorian. Dorian, the Adonis.
Years have gone by since the first time I was at the garden, since the first time I saw Dorian drinking the scent of some flower and getting doe-eyed listening to Henry Wotton. But the garden is still alive, and like Dorian, it is unspoiled, beautiful and youthful.
I know the garden, with all its beauty and charm, is not real, and I know Dorian, with all his beauty and charm, is not real. But there are times, especially when immersed in Wilde Words, where reality is just an extension of the imagination and where fact gives way to fiction to find 'beautiful meanings in beautiful things'.
In this quest, I look out the student's window where the little nightingale is draining its heart's blood into the red rose, I watch Hugie sulk in his walk after his extravagance and his charming scolding, and, I look into the broken leaden heart of the happy prince. The tragic beauty, or, is it comic? How dreadful of me to even suggest that!!!
But it is just simple, plain, pure beauty, one that cannot be spoiled, cannot be adulterated.
And in the end, I will always be fond of him, he represents to me all the sins I never had the courage to commit.

Wednesday, 15 May 2013

Bungh Dyo Jatra - The Annual Chariot Festival of Rato Machindranath of Patan (Bungh Dyo or the Deity from Bungh)

The much anticipated annual chariot festival of Rato (Red) Machindranath is here. The Rato Machindranath of Patan is worshiped in a variety of incarnations; to the Buddhists he is the tantric edition of Avalokiteshwor, Shaivites worship him as an incarnation of Shiva, some cults worship him as Kali, Tara, Lokeshwor, Karunamaya, or Matsyendranath, whereas some believe him to be Biranchinarayan. Even with all these names and incarnations the Rato Machindranath of Patan is most popularly known as ‘Bungh Dyo’ among its worshipers; the deity who is brought to Patan every year from the settlement of Bungamati, 5 kilometers away.

A shlok mentioned in the essay ‘Biranchinarayan’ (Manandhar, J.B., 2046 B.S. “Biranchinarayan”, Kathmandu: pp.120) can be translated as follows:
‘The one who is worshiped as Vishnu by Vaisnavites, Shiva by Shaivites, Shakti by Shaktas (followers of the Mother Goddess – Shakti), Surya by Shauryas (followers of the sun god – Surya), Brahma by Brahmans, Matsyendranath by Saints, Lokeshwor by the Vedics, and, Karunamaya by the Buddhists; I pray daily to such a deity’

The chariot of Matsyendranath at Lagankhel, Patan (2008) along with the smaller chariot of Min-Nath
The chariot festival of Bungh Dyo, travels through the streets of Patan, accompanied by a smaller chariot of Min-Nath. The chariot of Machindranath or Bungh Dyo consists of a square wooden shrine, covered in gilt, placed centrally at a wooden platform. The shrine along with the wheels and the beams are preserved from the previous years, but the other requirements such as poles, green boughs, streamers, vines, ropes and canes are assembled every year. The four large wheels, each with three painted eyes, represent four Bhairavs from the four places in the valley, the main beam of the chariot, called ‘Dhaima’ in Newari, represents the Karkotak Naag, the pulling ropes also represent the naags (serpents). It is said that the chariot of Rato Machindranath is constructed with representations of all the deities in some form or the other. Other images that are place in the chariot are of a Horse – the vahana of Surya, a Bull – vahana of Shiva, a GarudaVahana of Vishnu, and a Swan – vahana of Brahma. The number 32 plays an important role in the chariot construction, it is said that one revolution of the wheels (circumference) of the chariot measures 32 hands (32 haat).

Friday, 10 May 2013

Yala Mandala - Adaptive Reuse of an old Residence in Patan, Nepal


Kwalakhu, a place with a history of its own, is a residential settlement in Patan, less than 500 meters North-West of the Patan Durbar Square. Surrounded by monuments like the Hiranya Varna Mahabihar (Golden Temple), Bangalamukhi and Kumbheshwor temples, Swotha Narayan Temple and the Palace complex of ancient Lalitpur, Kwalakhu is a charming neighbourhood, a melting pot, of different crafts, cultures and architecture within the realms of traditional Newari art and lifestyle.  

Folklore suggests that the neighbourhood has been a historically significant location since the Kirat times and a majestic Peepal tree (Ficus religiosa or Sacred Fig) in the area is often cited as the remains from the prehistoric Kitati era. Such speculations, although not proven, have been verbally transmitted in stories from generation to generation adding to the charm and mystery of the place. The historicity of the place is further heightened by stories from the Rana times when the Rajbhandaris of Kwalakhu were known to have business relations with the then reigning Ranas. As such the architecture of the area seems to have influences from all surviving time periods, as early as the 'brick on mud mortar' Malla architecture to the lime plastered Rana style and the cement concrete structures of the present times.
Neighbourhood and the 'Rajbhandari House':
A walk around Kwalakhu brings you face to face with residents of different cultural backgrounds, within the Newar community. Incidentally it also brings you close to different traditional professions, which included trade and to a very large extend art. Even today, majority of the shops in the neighbourhood display metal sculptures and fabrics including Pashmina along with Nepali paper products.
It is befitting that this neighbourhood now houses Yala Mandala - a conglomeration of art, history and culture of all of Nepal. Yala Mandala Pvt. Ltd. is an art gallery that collects, designs, and manufactures and preserves pieces that are exclusive to the Nepali ways in terms of clothing, accessories, art, architecture and furniture and lifestyle products.
The building housing Yala is named the 'Rajbhandari House' after the family name of its original owners. Originally the building was a residence, but it also housed a local school at one point in history. In 2006 a section of the building was opened, after renovation by UNESCO, as the 'Kwalakhu Cafe'. Today the cafe is housed in an inner section and a part of the building is converted to Yala Mandala Art Gallery. Tracing the history of the building itself, it seems these quarters have adapted and transformed themselves as per the need of the time and place. Transformation - a key for the survival of many heritage homes through history is the essence of this place. A section of another building in the same courtyard has recently been renovated to be transformed into the offices of Yala.
Visually the buildings housing the gallery and the offices are similar to their original counterparts but parts of the interiors have been modified as per the needs of the function. Some of these spaces are opened up longitudinally with areas flowing into one another. The internal surfaces and spaces have been designed using traditional inspired finishes, furnishing and furniture ranging from jute mat flooring to low-height seating and timber furniture.
The refurbishment of the office building of Yala is done in a minimal intervention approach whereby the elements of the existing building are maintained rather than renovated. All external elements including the exposed brick wall and the carved timber windows are simply cleaned and re-finished with a fresh layer of linseed oil. Internal surfaces too have been simply cleaned and re-finished with either jute mat or mud flooring and a fresh coat of wall paint.
Interestingly the renovation of the building is not supervised by any professional designer or conservationist. The artisans, who have been trained through generations in their respective fields and who work with Yala, were given control over the respective details. The outcome is a product of their hands-on training and years of experience. The maintenance and preservation of all elements in the building is done in traditional techniques, depending on the traditional know how of this generation of artisans. And the intervention is so minimal that no extensive construction is done in any part of this building, all spaces have been adapted rather than redesigned.
"Renovation is not a project, it is a lifestyle" - Mr. Prabin Chitrakar, YALA
For centuries, building and building maintenance has not been about hiring professional help, it was always an endeavour of the community and the family. Of course the international norms of conservation are better followed by a conservationist and perhaps the end result is also better, but conserving a building one has been living at should not be a farfetched and unaffordable task. There was a time when the 'sikarmi' (carpenter) living around the corner would be called upon to fix a staircase, when everyone knew how to clean their jhingati roofs and how to polish their telia floors. Today this knowhow is diminishing, with the lack of people who are aware of such technologies; hence it is important to promote the artisans who still have the traditional knowledge by promoting the lifestyle of renovation and adaptive reuse.  "The people who work in these traditional arts do not realize their own capacity, yet they are the ones who are realizing these visions and who actually make it happen", adds Mr. Chitrakar. The idea behind the renovation of the office buildings at Kwalakhu is the resurrection of this traditional technology without the intervention of any foreign knowledge or the influence of a school of design. It is not only by visiting a museum that the general public can learn of the splendours of this place, at Yala the visitors can feels the space around them and hopefully can get inspired to adapt these ideas into their own homes.
Even with all the potential social benefits of the endeavours at Yala, it is important to note that these actions are not only for a social cause, there is a professional, promotional and business aspect to this place and all that is done here. The only highlight is that the place and the people have realized a way that will cause promotion as well as preservation.
YALA
With a tag line of 'creativity in every sphere', Yala strives to provide and inspire just that - creativity in every sphere. Yala Mandala designs, develops and manufactures products and services that are inspired by the local community and their trade skills. The products at Yala include jewellery, natural buttons, paper products, knitwear, clothing and accessories, natural rugs, candles, bath and beauty products, paintings, furniture and furnishing, artefacts and collectables. All products of Yala are handcrafted in Nepal. The gallery, at the 'Rajbhandari House' is a fusion of art, craft, tradition and architecture which presents the unique yet traditional products of Yala in a jovial atmosphere of a traditional mud and timber based building.
Yala also promotes local and traditional art by hosting events dedicated to and presenting the local music, food etc. Heritage is not limited to its tangible products, every aspect of this tradition, from the art to the rituals and the beliefs should be experienced. So at Yala, it is not only the products but the atmosphere and the energy of the place that one can experience, especially during these events and during the sessions of music therapy and cooking classes. No aspect of the tradition is compromised for the benefit of the visitor, instead the visitor blends in the experience and perceives as per their comfort.
Another initiative at Yala is the promotion of traditional architecture by preserving and renovating abandoned or neglected buildings and inserting activities in such spaces, starting from their own office space opposite to the gallery.